WAVES WERE 3-4 FT AND GLASSEY CONDITIONS. WHAT A GREAT WAY TO SPEND THE MORNING. MY FRIEND BRIAN SHOWED UP AT MY HOUSE AT 6:30 AM WITH HIS BOARD A WETSUIT. DARN, THIS WAS TO EARLY FOR A SUNDAY, BUT WHAT AM I SUPPOSED TO DO SEND HIM HOME. SO IN HE CAME AND ON GOES THE ESPRESSO MACHINE, WE'RE SURFERS (A LEAST TODAY) NOT ANIMALS.
THE TRUTH BE TOLD I HAVEN'T BEEN ON A BOARD, SHORT OR LONG, IN OVER A YEAR, OR IN MY WETSUIT. THAT WAS THE FIRST TEST. GETTING INTO A TIGHT DRY SUIT WAS TOUGH, WETSUITS SHOULD BE DRY BUT SUPPLE FROM BEING WET AND DRIED OVER NIGHT. THEN CAME THE PADDLE OUT, TALK ABOUT LIMP NOODLE ARMS. SURPRISE, SURPRISE I GOT OUT, IN THE OLD DAYS I WOULDN'T EVEN HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT PADDLEING INTO OVERHEAD SURF. ONCE OUT I DIDN'T HAVE MUCH LEFT, BUT WAS ABLE TO PLAY FOR ABOUT 40 MCN.
THE END RESULT... PICTURE PERFECT DAY WITH GREAT WAVES, ANY SURFER WOULD SALIVATE. MY BODY NEEDS TO BUILD UP TO A FULL SURF SESSION BEFORE I HEAD OUT INTO OVERHEAD SIZE WAVES. AND MY BEST FRIEND TO SHARE IT ALL WITH... PRICELESS!!!
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